Although my Airbnb has a Nespresso machine that satisfies my morning caffeine craving, I craved a well made flat white this morning, so I made my way over to Fix Coffee, which had a great aesthetic and the best coffee I’ve had so far in Europe. I love when you can taste the deep roasted espresso.

After my caffeine fix, I walked down to the nearby market to pick up a few things. At the checkout counter I apparently placed my basket in the wrong place and was scolded by the older cashier, whereupon the young German guy in front of me smiled and said “welcome to German hospitality!”. He told me to ignore her. I probably know a thousand German words, and can read essential signs and am told that my pronunciation is good; however, I struggle to put together more than a few coherent sentences.

Since it’s another perfectly sunny day, I plan to use the bike and take a long leisurely ride through the parks and out to the lakes, which were created 30 years ago by filling in the huge coal and lignite mines. Perhaps I’ll stop by Die Spinnerei, the repurposed spinning mill that was once Europe’s largest before being closed in 1993. It’s now filled with galleries and artists’ lofts.

Well, my legendary good luck has not been with me this week! On Monday morning, I decided to use the nice hotel fitness center for a workout. I usually do at least 3 sets of 12 pull-ups per week. The gym had one of those gnarly machines with 4 angled pull-up bars instead of the traditional straight ones that I’ve been using for years. When I hopped up to grab the bar, I felt a stab of pain on the inside of my right arm, around the area of the lower bicep and forearm. I then iced it on and off for the next 24 hours until it was feeling better. Worried that I may have torn something I called my son, who’s in an orthopedic practice. I’ll see him when I’m back next Thursday . Well, about 3 miles into my ride a thick twig flew into the front wheel and I went down, involuntarily breaking the fall with my right arm! Ouch! I wasn’t going fast, but this set my recovery back. The twig broke the front plastic fender and bent a spoke. I thought it smart to return. The owner and his girlfriend came over and told me not to worry about the bike. After icing it again and taking 650 mg of Bayer aspirin, it’s feeling better. I’ll stick to walking from now on!

An hour later they returned to announce that the shop already repaired the bike! We chatted for about an hour. Since they both lived in Brighton, England for five years, their English was perfect. They’re both from Tübingen, in the west. They said that after reunification West Germans bought up 70% of the properties in Leipzig, leaving its inhabitants with no choice but to pay higher rents, which in the past had been heavily subsidized by the Communist regime. They also said that Tesla was doing well since the German car makers have a year-long wait for their electric cars. Apparently they’re exporting them all to the US and China.

Later that afternoon I decided to walk the 3 miles to Die Spinnerei. I love walking through authentic neighborhoods in foreign cities, away from the tourist zones. I found most of the buildings in good shape, with lots of foot traffic and street activation. Die Spinnerei itself is impressive. It’s filled with galleries, tech incubators and art supply stores. There’s even a small avant-garde museum. Here are photos of the old mill.

On the return I decided to take the tram part of the way since I knew I was close to my daily goal of ten miles. On the way, I snapped pictures of a canal and the River Mulde. If I hadn’t injured my right arm I would’ve rented a canoe.

Once I got back to the center, I entered historic St Thomaskirche, founded by the Augustinians in the 13th c. It went through several renovations before becoming a Lutheran church in the early 16th c. Lutheran churches in Northern Europe would be considered “high church” in the US since they still retain a Catholic “light” liturgy and crucifixes. In the Church of Sweden, they still use incense. The organist was playing Bach during my brief visit. Bach is buried under the nave.

Heading back to my Airbnb via one of the galleries, I passed by a gourmet market and wine shop. A gentleman was presiding over a kiosk of chilled wines, so I stopped and we had a nice conversation about wines. He suggested I try a local Saxon Grauburgunder ( grey Burgundy) which I found delightful. Saxony only has 600 hectares under cultivation, but the wines are dry and superb. While standing at the kiosk, I started chatting with a lovely early 60’s couple who spoke little English. Between my appalling German and their slightly better English, we shared travel stories for about thirty minutes. They grew up in Leipzig during DDR times. Jens worked for Caterpillar and his sole USA visit was a company-sponsored trip to Reno and Vegas 25 years ago, where he lost $300 at the casinos. When I told him I’d spent five nights in Berlin, he and his wife scoffed at my decision. Like most Europeans living in provincial cities, they loathe the capital! Jens lit up a cigar and that prompted me to ask for one, which I may smoke tomorrow night in Dresden. When I settled my bill with Max, the wine sommelier, he told me the wine was on the house since he enjoyed out wine conversation. What a marvelous coda to a day of mixed blessings!