I arrived in Madrid around 7:30 am in the morning gloom, since sunrise at this latitude isn’t until 8:05. Typically, Delta One’s business class product is superb, but this one was mediocre. It was a 767, which I didn’t know was still in service. The power outlet didn’t work, there was no personal light for reading, and the food was awful. At least there was a fully flat sleeping configuration with a decent pillow and blanket. I doubt that I slept more than an hour. Passport control at Madrid Barajas was quick and I grabbed a ride to my hotel. The fall scenery was splendid and the drive took us through several city parks which was pleasant.
My hotel had a room available for early check-in, so I dropped off my luggage and set out for a long walk in the crisp autumn air. I didn’t dare take a nap for fear that I’d sleep for hours. My routine on the first day is to stay up as late as I can to acclimate myself to the time zone. Last night I dropped at 8:00 pm and arose this morning around 7:45! I’ll describe today’s itinerary tonight.
A friend and his wife suggested brunch at El Federal, which was a 3 km. walk from my hotel. I walked along the Gran Vía, Madrid’s broad shopping and commercial artery. It was somewhat depressing to see the usual American fast food and clothing chains. En route, I stopped at the Plaza de España to admire two high-rises built over 60 years ago during the Franco regime. At the time they were among the tallest in Europe. El Torre de Madrid at 37 stories is the tallest and El Edificio, completed in 1953, is 26. There’s a large fountain with a statue of Cervantes in the middle.



After lunch I walked to the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum where I’d purchased a ticket online. The area around the museum is filled with monumental buildings and parks. The streets are lined with mature chestnut and sycamore trees showing their fall colors. The Thyssen is almost overwhelming in its immense collection spanning over four centuries, from Dutch Masters through Impressionism and Abstract Expressionism to 20th c. American and European modern and pop art. It would take two days to see all four floors. They even had a Jamie Wyeth.








After spending a few hours at the Thyssen, I walked over to the Paseo del Prado past the Prado, where I’d spent an afternoon in 2013 admiring the Spanish Masters. I revisited the Royal Botanical Gardens before walking up the leafy El Retiro, which had formerly been a royal hunting ground. The area is full of upscale apartments and elegant bistros.





I took the long way back to the hotel through the government quarter, passing the Army headquarters, government ministries and office buildings, and finally the Chamber of Deputies, the parliament. After almost eleven miles, I was ready for dinner at the hotel and an early bedtime.





